Chasing Lava Flow in Big Island, Hawaii

Big Island, Hawaii

These are the 2 things I want you to know right off the bat:
1. If you get a chance to walk right up to a flowing lava, close enough to poke it, DO IT.
2. Walking on lava rocks suck. Walking on lava rocks at night sucks even more. But even then, see #1

Big Island is home to world’s most active volcano. As opposed to throwing its lava and rocks around in a big, destructive tantrum, Kilauea oozes its lava in a relatively peaceful manner. This provides a rare opportunity for people to get close to it. As of a matter in fact, close enough to step in it if you’re not careful enough.

(MORE: Looking Into the Bowel of the Earth)

On that note: be careful. Even in headlamps you can tell where fresh lava has been. Even if it looks solid, don’t step on it. Often the crust hides hot lava underneath. At Jagger Museum in Volcano NP, you can learn what happened to a scientist who accidentally stepped into a pool of lava.

The spot where the current lava flows from Kilauea changes all the time. Jack and I were lucky enough to be on the island when the current flow is within a reasonable hiking distance.

Unfortunately, the hike to get there requires hiking pass private property. The owner decides to charge $120 per group to allow people to cross his property.

Fortunately, if you come after 10 pm there will be nobody to stop you from doing the 1.5 hour hike.

The hike to see lava

As soon you get to parking lot (we parked by the guard shack), you can see the reddish glow in the horizon which acted as our beacon.

The hike was tough. Walking on lava rocks is big pain in the ‘okole. The terrain is covered with cracks and fissures – often 3-4 ft deep. On top of the challenging terrain, lava rocks are super sharp. They’ll chew up your shoes. They will shred your skin if you fall.

I had to concentrate all the time on where I put my feet. Soon I was getting a headache because I was straining so hard to see. For the longest time, I swear that glow was not getting any closer.

Tip: wear long pants and very strong headlamp

But when we finally got there, all the pain was forgotten

Because seeing lava up close is something that’s hard to describe.

It was beautiful as in Mordor is beautiful. The land in front of us steams, glows, crackles, and sizzles.

The heat was intense. We couldn’t get any closer than 5 ft from fresh flowing lava. As lava cools, it forms a thick layer on the surface, but we could see the lava underneath from the cracks in the crust – intensely bright against the ground in the night sky. Crackling noise fills the air.

Jack playing with the lava flow. The steam at the top right background is where the lava meets the ocean.
Jack playing with the lava flow. The steam at the top right background is where the lava meets the ocean.
Fresh lava seeping from ground, courtesy of Kilauea, the world's most active volcano
Fresh lava seeping from ground, courtesy of Kilauea, the world’s most active volcano – Big Island, Hawaii

We had a playground from hell in front of us and we had it all to ourselves.

We had a lot of fun with the lava

We found some discarded walking sticks on the way in that we poked the lava with. It catches fire almost instantly. We laugh. We prodded the lava some more.

Poke a stick at the lava, Big Island, Hawaii
Let me poke a stick at it and see what happens

Jack started throwing rocks at a spot of flowing lava just because he could. They fell in a silent thud. Lava is a lot thicker and heavier than it looks. It is, after all, molten rock.

We took lots of blurry pictures with our phones.

(That night I learned that phones do not take good night time pictures.)

Here you can see Jack having way too much fun with lava

Jack vs Lava

Coastal lava flow

After abusing the poor lava flows inland, we made our way to the coast. I read somewhere that you can get really close to the hot spot, the spot where the lava drips down to meet the ocean – but we couldn’t get there that night. Not without stepping over newly formed crust still hot to the touch (it means there’s still lava underneath the crust).

It seemed too high of a risk. So we skirted around towards where we came from until we found ourselves at the edge of a 50 ft cliff.

Where lava meets the Ocean

As our gaze follow the coastline we saw thick plumes of steam as half a dozen lava waterfalls plunge 50 ft to the cold ocean. Even from quite a distance, the red glow of these molten rock waterfalls was striking. As the waves come in, bits of lava would get thrown in the air like a firework display.

The thought that I was watching new land being formed just blows my mind.

I stood mouth agape for a very long time feeling incredibly lucky to be where I was at that very moment.

IMPORTANT


Follow highway 130 all the way to the very end. There was a sign that says "Authorized personnel only" - drive around it and keep going until you pass a row of porta potties. Keep going and you'll see a guard shack. Park there.

Since the lava flow moves constantly, this post will be outdated pretty soon. Check with park rangers and locals about where the current flow is, and if you can make it there - your effort will not be wasted. We promise.

IMPORTANT - having a way to get back to your car is critical. Getting to the lava is the easy part, but finding your car in the dark 1.5 mi away is not so. If you don't want to get trapped until sunrise, bring a GPS (we used MyTracks for Android)

15 Replies to “Chasing Lava Flow in Big Island, Hawaii”

  1. Just a side note…nobody can decline you access to the lava flows (except the State/county/gov. You can take the old lava covered county road to the flows. Some GPS have this road or you can find the data on the state GIS web page. Also, the new coastal land is owned by the state of Hawaii…so you can follow the coast. Private property is in the area and you need to be respectful of that (over 1000 different owners/lots in the area, but you don’t have to pay $$$. Next time call the police on this guy because he is full of BS. Also just learned that one of the tour companies in under a murder investigation for someone else starting a lava tour company. Be carefull…..

    1. Thanks for weighing in. So you're saying that as long as visitors follow the buried old lava road, technically we're still on public land?

  2. Thanks for your response. It certainly makes me feel a little more comfortable about going on the Lava hike. The price is steep but in my opinion, worth it as it pays for a professional guide with extensive knowledge of the area. The cost is $525 for a private tour.

  3. My 13 year old daughter and I (everyone else backed out when they heard that it's a 3 mile hike each way) will be doing a Lava Proximity Hike with Volcano Discover Tour on the Big Island in approx. 2 weeks time. I'm excited but am nervous at the same time. I'm a bit of a clutz so I am quite concerned about falling and cutting myself. We will be doing the hike in the day – starting at approx. 10am and plan to end around 4pm. I realize that it's a challenging, but not undoable trek. Should I be concerned? I understand that the night trek is 100% tougher than the day one. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

    1. Hi there, I think you're up for a treat!

      Hiking on lava rocks is tough and you might get cut up if you fall so I'd suggest long pants and good hiking boots. Maybe even walking sticks. It all depends on how much hiking you've done and how comfortable you are on uneven terrain but as long as you go at your own pace and pay attention to your footing, you'll be fine.

      Do you mind me asking how much the tour costs? Some people have asked me about the possibility of a guided tour.

      Have a great time on the island!! We're hoping to be back soon.

  4. What an incredible adventure with some great photos! We were at Volcanoes NP a few years ago but never got close to this flowing lava. It wasn't exactly recommended with 2 toddlers in tow 🙂 I would love to see this at night. We were supposed to see the lava flow from the cruise ship but had a detour.

Comments are closed.