When K, my Couchsurfing host in Seoul, invited me to go hiking Mt. Bukhansan, I agreed to tag along. “It’s just a small day hike,’ – she said.
I wasn’t taking this hike as seriously as I should’ve. Here’s why:
1. It was a last minute trip haphazardly planned.
2. I mistakenly thought we were doing this hike (Seoul Fortress Wall of ‘Bugaksan’ hike) which didn’t sound intimidating at all.
There were 2 others beside K and I on this supposedly little hike: L, another ESL teacher in Seoul, and Sunny – a Korean girl whose personality fits her nickname to the tee.
Climbing Seoul’s highest peak – “How hard can it be?”
Mt. Bukhansan is a mountain of many peaks. We were climbing the tallest one, Baegundae Peak, that stands at 840 m (or 2700 ft). The first half of the 3.4km (2 mi) trail was mildly steep. But that only means that the second half was torturously steep.
The last 1/4 of the trail consists of cables set up to help hikers pull themselves up, stairs, and steps hewn into rocks. The rocks and the metal cables were so cold they were painful to the touch. It was tough going.
I thought it would never end.
Where we encountered a new colorful species: Korean hikers
There’s one thing you should know. Koreans LOVE hiking. That’s ‘love’ with all letters capitalized. They come in droves on weekends to popular trails dressed in bright GoreTex jackets, matching backpacks, titanium hiking sticks, and enough accessories to survive a snowstorm.
We went on a Sunday which was a mistake in its own part. Mt. Bukhansan is one of the most popular hiking trail in Seoul and the trail was packed. I practically had my nose up somebody’s butt at all times.
In areas where we had to scramble on hands and feet, my hands narrowly missed getting stabbed by hiking sticks.
The view from the top
After 2.5 hrs of huffing and puffing, I got myself to the top.
The view was inspiring despite the day being far from ideal: it was cloudy and grey. We could see the sprawl of Seoul and other peaks of Mt. Bukhansan.
Around the summit, people were eating in groups enjoying the view. Watching them I came to the conclusion that Koreans sure know how to hike. Instead of the usual hikers’ fare of granolas and Cliff bars, they were munching on rolls of sushi, hot bowls of ramen, and sharing hot cups of tea.
Carrying hot water all the way up this mountain? The idea might seem crazy, but oh it seems so worth it to be able to get your hands around a hot cup of drinks.
How I fell in love with Sunny
Even after finishing all the food I brought, I was still so, so hungry. And cold. I was resigned to the fact I’d be climbing down hungry and cold.
Then Sunny opened her backpack and pulled out containers of fried sweet potatoes (complete with condiments), a thermos of hot tea, and paper cups. Enough for everybody. I looked at her with amazement. I think I shed some tears.
I want to take Sunny wherever I go hiking in the future.
The drunk hike down Mt. Bukhansan
On the hike down we chose a different, shorter route that happened to pass a small restaurant selling Korean rice wine (makgeolli). Somehow the group was convinced that getting a buzz on would make the climb down faster. “It’s the tradition”, L said. “You go up a mountain, get drunk, and hike down”.
I looked at Sunny, the only Korean of the group, for confirmation. She just shrugged in that universal gesture of “I don’t know what they’re talking about.” But in we went and we shared a couple of bowls of makgeolli. It definitely helped me warm up from the inside. I felt recharged.
So with a nice buzz going, we tackled the knee breacking hike down. K and L ran past us, products of many hours on the gym and fueled even futher by the rice wine.
Sunny stayed back to keep me company (did I mention how much I love this girl?) while I stumbled and slipped my way down the mountain. The makgeolli did help me go faster, just not in a way I thought it would.
When we finally got to the Visitor Center, euphoria set it. We just climbed Seoul’s highest peak. Woot! We’re so hardcore!
As usual, despite the pain, I’m glad I made it up.
So, is the hike up Mt. Bukhansan hard? I’d say so.
Am I glad I did it? Of course.
Would I do it again? Err, probably not.
Info on Bukhansan
How to get to Mt. Bukhansan by Subway: Gireum Station (Subway Line 4), Exit 3. Take Bus 110B or 143, and get off at the very last bus stop. Simply follow the big group of hikers getting off the bus to the trailhead. There’s another way through a different park entrance, but I couldn’t remember what it’s called.
Recommended Tour: I’m all about doing activities independently whenever I could, but sometimes, due to time restriction, it makes more sense to join a small tour.
This Viator tour takes you to this same hike and includes a visit to a traditional Korean spa (jjimjilbang) afterwards.