In case you’re curious, we’re still in Baños, Ecuador at the moment. We’ve been here for 5 weeks. Don’t worry, the end of this week we’re really, this time for real, going to move on.
A couple of weeks ago, I left Jack behind in Baños while a girlfriend and I made a weekend trip to Cuenca.
On the agenda: visiting Ingapirca and having girls-only time.
First item on the agenda…
Unfortunately, for my first Inca ruin ever, Ingapirca turned out to be only mildly entertaining.
And that’s me being nice.
I guess I should’ve lowered my expectation. Ruins interest me very little. But it’s such a South American thing to do, visiting Inca ruins that is, that I couldn’t help feeling excited about the prospect. Besides, we just spent some of the most grueling 12 hours to get here. The kind of trip that includes vomitings and nose-bleeds.
Anyway, this is what Lonely Planet says about Ingapirca
“…is about as much fun as staring at a pile of rocks. For the easily impressed, it might be akin to having lunch with Atahualpa himself.”
Guess which category I belong to?
The thing is, very little is known about Ingapirca. I know if only they were stories to go with it, I’d have enjoyed it more.
It’s hard to appreciate a pile of rocks (trust me, I’ve tried), however impressive the masonry was, without some stories to go with them.
Why circular (or elliptical)? Why here? Who were some of the characters who lived there?
I wanted to hear about human sacrifices and about treacheries between the royal family members. I wanted to hear stories about love, betrayal, and conquests.
But instead all I got was a bunch of speculations.
We could not find the mythical English-speaking guide and attached ourselves to a local tour group. Even with our limited Spanish, we caught many ‘maybe’, ‘we think’, ‘we don’t know for sure’, ‘possibly’.
The museum attached to the site tells very little. Its lack of useful information reminds me a bit about the museum in Baños, but minus the fake blood and grimacing animals.
You’d think with $6 foreigner admission (spelled ‘foreing’ on the ticket), they can afford to display some information on the little items it has on display. Not to mention a spellchecker.
Even Wikipedia has only 4 paragraghs about the Ingapirca.
In the end, the fact remains that very little is known about the Cañari people who built the site at Ingapirca and the Incans who came later to occupy it.
Whatever stories, scandals, and dramas that this ruin must have been a background to are lost in history and quite possible will never surface again.
But the trip was not all wasted.
Fortunately, the second item on the agenda, having a girl-bonding time in one of the prettiest Colonial cities in Ecuador was a lot more successful.
Cuenca is a pretty cool city and it has things that Baños is lacking. Things like hookah bars and falafel stands.
Cheers to that.
How was your first ruin experience?
Admission to Ingapirca site: a hefty $6 a person
How to get there: From Cuenca, take a bus to El Tambo ($1.25 -2 hours), then take a bus to Ingapirca (50 cent – 30 mins).